History of Platinum and its use in Jewelry

Written by Aaron

As a metal so flawless and pristine, Platinum is regarded by many to be a first rate material with which jewelry is made. As of late, it has become the favored precious metal of the celebrity. Understandably, this has put many under the impression that platinum – or rather its use in Jewelry – is “cutting edge” – a common misconception.

History of Platinum

Platinum jewelry, like gold jewelry has a long and illustrious history. Traces of Platinum are reported to have been found in Egyptian artifacts dating back to 1200 BC. It is said, that around 700 BC, the ancient Egyptians had fully mastered the art and technique with which Platinum is processed. The Natives in Central and South America are said to have worked with it as far back as 100 BC – combining it with Gold. The Spanish – during their campaign to conquer and colonize the New World, came across Platinum artifacts. Upon discovery, they called Platinum by the name “Platina” which means “Little Silver”. Foolishly thinking of it to be of no value, they discarded the artifacts and plundered the gold instead.

Platinum did not reach Europe until the 18th Century. In 1751, Swedish scientist Theophil Scheffer took note of the unique properties of platinum, declaring it to be a precious metal. King Louis XVI referred to Platinum as “The Metal of Kings”. Marc Etienne Janety (1750-1823) – A French Artist/Metalworker (most famous for his mastery of the Arsenic process) and private jeweler to King Louis, designed a number of platinum artifacts. Most notable of these is a Platinum sugar bowl which can be seen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.

Although Louis XVI was dispatched in the French revolution, the passion for platinum did not diminish and the appreciation for its unique and rare qualities only increased. King Carlos III of Spain is said to have commissioned an elegant and magnificent platinum chalice which was presented to Pope Pius VI. King Carlos IV of Spain had a “Platinum Room” built in his summer palace at Aranjuez.

In the 19th Century, further progress was made, and platinum deposits were discovered in the Russian Urals. So plentiful were these sources, that throughout the 19th Century, the Russians incorporated Platinum coins into their economy. In addition – with the onset of Diamond-Mining in South Africa, Platinum presented itself as the ideal setting for the stone. So perfect of a setting is platinum that the three most famous diamonds – the Hope, Jonker I, and the Koh-I-Noor – are all set in Platinum.

Celebrated jewelers such as Louis Cartier, Peter Faberge and Charles Tiffany earned and obtained much of their fame and success due to their timeless and magnificent designs made in platinum.

Around the early 1900’s, Platinum Jewelry reached the pinnacle of its popularity becoming the preferred precious metal for fine jewelry in America. Yet at the start of World War II (due to its density and durability), the United States Government proclaimed Platinum a “Strategic Metal” and in doing so outlawed its use in jewelry. To the consumer who valued the purity and white luster of Platinum, the jewelers introduced White Gold.

Interestingly enough – Platinum has many uses outside of the realm of Jewelry. It (as stated) is/was used in wartime for armaments. It should also be noted that Platinum is vital to the automobile industry and is used in electrical engineering, electronics and petrochemicals. The Dental and Medical field make use of Platinum as well. Due to the vital role which Platinum plays in industry, it can be understood as to why only 1/3 of Platinum which is mined is used in jewelry.

After World War II, when the ban on civilian use of Platinum was lifted, Platinum Jewelry quickly regained its popularity. There are many contributing factors which led to this resurgence. Put aside the fact Platinum is the most exquisite of all metals, Platinum is also known to be the most durable. It does not tarnish, and unlike other metals, it does not distort when exposed to heat. Platinum Jewelry is also known to be the most pure. Unlike 18k (75% Gold) and 14k (58% Gold), Platinum Jewelry is 90%-95% Platinum. Unlike Silver, Platinum is Hypo-Allergenic. In all this - Despite its rarity, the price of Platinum has remained steady. Especially now – a time when Platinum is within $200 of Gold, many (especially Brides) are turning to Platinum as the ‘must have’ of Jewelry.

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This post was written by Aaron. If you have any questions or comments you may contact him at aaron@jewelerslounge.com

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