Maurice Lacroix introduces new masterpiece

Written by Nathan

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece has two collections. These will be shown at Basel World 2009

1. Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Lune Retrograde

The look is contemporary, the demeanor stately. The new Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde introduces a new interface that is unique in its kind and that offers time measurement a generous case with a 46 mm diameter. Driven by the new Manufacture-made ML 152 movement, this timepiece is imbued with a geometric simplicity that galvanizes its mechanical complexity.

Like time itself, it displays a dynamic personality that is constantly on the move together with a high-tech, openwork dial. Beneath the sapphire crystal, which has an anti-reflective coating on both sides, the dial structures and gives proportion to the watch’s time indicators with calculated and mathematical balance.

Perfectly symmetrical, the power reserve and retrograde date displays, positioned at 2 o’clock and at 10 o’clock, are mirror images of each other. The meticulous, hollowed-out windows offer a subtle behind-the-scenes glimpse of time; the arcs have been skeletonized for an “industrial” look, while all unnecessary decor has been avoided. Featuring boldly colored extremities, each hand has been delicately applied to the dial and slides beneath one of the numerous hollowed-out arcs that display the watch’s information.

The moon phase is displayed on a precisely calibrated celestial disc positioned at 6 o’clock. This design fulfills the brand’s desire to give time a more modern image. A small luminescent hand, that closely resembles the hours and minutes hands, indicates the day of the week on the edge of the moon-phase disc.

The technical nature of the Masterpiece Lune Retrograde extends to its simple finishes. Its dynamic, calculated and steadfast design resembles those who have decided to appreciate time with determination and confidence, rather than suffer it. A worthy heir of the brand’s heritage in terms of retrograde and moon-phase mechanisms, this model joins the ranks of the ML 150 and ML 151 movements launched in 2008, which were also designed and developed in-house.

Technical Data:

Movement: Moon Phases Retrograde Calendar Maurice Lacroix Manufacture movement ML152, equipped with its own lever assortment, gear-train and spring balance, developed, manufactured and assembled in-house.

Functions: Hours and minutes indicated by central hands, retrograde calendar indicated by hand, visible through the dial at 10 o’clock, moon phases indicated by a disc at 6 o’clock, day indicated by a hand at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicated by hand, visible through the dial at 2 o’clock, vibration 18,000 vph, 2.5 Hz, power reserve 42 hours, 37 jewels, adjustment: 5 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours.

Decoration: Hand-decorated bridges plated with black-gold and featuring large snail-like pattern and dedicated moon phases disc.

Case: Combination of polished sunray, circular- and vertical-brushed surfaces, steel, 46 mm diameter, screwed steel bezel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, integrated shaped push-pieces to correct functions, screw-down crown in ¼ turn, screwed case-back featuring a large sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water resistant to 100meters.

Dial: Functions revealed through skeletonized dial, main plate: slate-gray with vertical-brushed finish, skeletonized retrograde calendar and power reserve zones, applied ring: circular-brushed with polished applied slate-gray Arabic numerals, integrated skeletonized indicators for the retrograde calendar and power reserve functions, large opening at 6 o’clock for the moon phase indication, with an integrated metal-coated sapphire crystal, applied “Maurice Lacroix” brushed cartouches.

2.Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Le Chronograph Squelette

An avant-garde design housed within a diameter of 45 mm. A skeleton that shapes time. A Manufacture -made mechanism, the ML 106-7 caliber. This new instrument for the measurement of short time intervals deserves the utmost respect. Its precise mechanics, for which a patent has been filed, and openwork design, which displays and thus authenticates the movement, are the cornerstones of an undeniably contemporary collection.

Offering a new take on the skeleton watch, which had already been fully redesigned in 2007 with the Masterpiece Squelette, this model looks like being a worthy successor. Protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, the manually wound movement is proudly on display. Within this maze, the workings of the skeletal structure enjoy a refined, streamlined effect and have been reduced to the bare essentials.

Hypnotized by the movement’s intricacy, the light brushes past the dusky seconds hand, before bouncing off the sharp, luminous spurs of the hours and minutes hands. Having pierced through the slate-gray metallic sapphire dial, with its applied time indicators, it comes to rest on the chronograph counters, intrigued by the presence of a 60-minute counter. It then follows the movement of the counter’s hands which, shaped like skeletal discs, resemble the gears of the movement.

It then ricochets off the snailed architecture and black screws of the bottom plate, before being drawn into the depths of this compelling time machine. Once inside, it tames the escapement, grazes across the golden gears, acquaints itself with the column wheel and caresses the rubies. Then, in a flash, it slips through the sapphire-crystal case-back, powered by the oscillations of a well-concealed, black balance that blends into its surroundings until almost invisible.

We would like to see some more diamond watches

The structure of the Le Chronographe Squelette transforms inorganic matter into a living and exciting mechanism that displays each of its Manufacture-crafted components with pride. The design of this metallic sculpture is an appropriate icon for a brand that has dared to create an elegant yet edgy collection most definitely anchored in the 21st century.

Technical Data:

Movement: Chronograph equipped with a Maurice Lacroix Manufacture movement and its own lever assortment, gear-train and spring balance. Developed, manufactured and assembled in-house. Precision enhanced by innovation/Patent: 60-minute counter: a rare function that is highly adapted to accurate time-keeping a more precise chronograph function (accurate to 1/5 second) is maintained in direct relation with the seconds hand for optimal precision. Maurice Lacroix patent on the lever (located under the hammer). In the event of impact, this technical innovation optimizes security during the interlocking or releasing phases, thus guaranteeing utmost precision. Chronograph-wheel enables a special toothed shape (300 teeth) to be used, which cannot be crafted using traditional fabrication techniques. It is another guarantee of utmost precision.

Functions: Hours and minutes indicated by central hands, small seconds at 9 o’clock, Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand, 60-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. Vibration18,000 vph, 2.5 Hz, Power reserve 42 hours, 22 Jewels, adjustment: 5 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours. Swan neck ensures smooth adjustment, diameter: 16”½ (36.6 mm)

Decoration: Hand-decorated bridges plated with black gold and featuring a large snail-like pattern ML wheel design matches the design of the hands and discs.

Case: Combination of polished sunray, circular- and vertical-brushed surfaces, steel case, 45 mm diameter, screwed steel bezel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, Integrated shaped push-pieces, screw-down crown in ¼ turn, screwed case-back featuring large sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 100 meters.

Dial: Sapphire-crystal dial with metal-coated treatment, dial with anti-reflective coating on both sides for a clearer view of the skeleton movement, slate-gray metal-coated treatment to reinforce the effect of the double counters and chronograph-seconds track function, white SLN (SuperLumiNova) spots on counters and second tracks.

This post was written by Nathan. If you have any questions or comments you may contact him at nathan@jewelerslounge.com