Patek Philippe First Ladies Chronograph, Ref. 70171 R
Written by James Matthews
To celebrate the opening of its new Art Deco salon at n°10 de la place Vendôme, Patek Philippe unveiled a lovely new timepiece called the “First Ladies Chronograph”, Ref. 70171 R.
The First Ladies Chronograph is an extension of the salon’s signature 1930s Art Deco style, with a rose gold cushion case and rounded lugs. Notably, the First Ladies Chronograph design team was made up entirely of women and no details were left to chance. The dial is available in either silver opaline or black with guilloché, with two chronograph registers below the central axis, and feuille hands in rose gold.
There are 136 diamonds embellished around the bezel. This elegant touch makes the difference. The sapphire caseback allows one to admire the 269 components of the beautiful new CH 29-535 PS caliber. While many watch companies invariably involve quartz and femininity, Patek Philippe – whose expertise in the world of mechanical chronographs is no longer a part – has decided to pose as a revolutionary vision. This will be a mechanical chronograph with manual winding column-wheel available to Ladies!
CH 29-535 PS
Elegance, refinement, sophistication: the three values cherished by Patek Philippe and seal are concentrated in the CH 29-535 PS. No fewer than six patented innovations have been filed by the factory at the time of the creation of this movement to later equip in men’s watches. The features? A profile of optimized gears – introduced in 2005 on the chronographe à rattrapante extra-plat CH R 27 525 PS – which increases the efficiency in energy transmission and reduces friction. An eccentric hat on top of the column wheel (*un chapeau excentrique au-dessus de la roue à colonnes) for better control of penetration gear .
Optimization of the clutch with the addition of a finger on the switch to synchronize directly the two bodies. A very successful openwork cam minute meter to cushion shocks during the reset. The creation of compensated reset hammers. And finally, the innovation of a pivoting hammers – seconds and minutes – ensuring a precise fit to their height. It is unclear whether women who wear the Ladies First Chronograph will fully appreciate all these technical innovations. But with this timepiece, perhaps women will make their husbands mad with jealousy. If this happens, Patek Philippe has won the gamble at a wager of 51,000 euros each.
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This post was written by James Matthews. If you have any questions or comments you may contact him at james@jewelerslounge.com
