Black Ties
Wednesday, June 4th, 2008Unlike white tie, a man has sartorial options in choosing his dinner jacket and accessories. The elements of a traditional black-tie ensemble are:
* Short or medium black jacket which may have grosgrain- or satin-faced lapels
* Black trousers with silk braids matching the lapels
* A black cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat
* A white dress shirt with either a marcella or a pleated front
* A black silk bow tie
* Black dress socks, often made of silk
* Black patent leather shoes or highly polished black leather shoes
Jacket
The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, constructed of black, or midnight blue wool, which may be faced with either grosgrain (ribbed silk) or satin. The most traditional lapel type is the peaked lapel, derived from its tailcoat predecessor; the shawl collar (with rounded lapels) is used also. Currently, both styles can be either single- or double-breasted. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, is an American innovation; disdained by purists for its lounge suit derivation, it is has been accepted by other authorities as “a legitimate…less formal alternative.”[1] The traditional single-breasted jacket has a single-button closure, with two-button variants sometimes seen; jackets incorporating more buttons are fashion fads. (Also see: smoking jacket)
It’s also complemented with Gold Cufflinks
The colour black may have a green hue in artificial light, if aesthetically unacceptable to the man, midnight blue (introduced by the Prince of Wales) is the acceptable alternative colour; other colours are fads.
The white dinner jacket is often worn in warm climates. The American colour exceptions are its use in the celebratory high school graduation promenade dance, or “prom”, and concert conductors, i.e. the Last Night. In the U.S. and Canada a white dinner jacket is traditionally worn only from Memorial Day in the spring to Labor Day in late summer, this rule applies also to white summer clothes (shoes, suits, et cetera).
Stylistically, it is bad form (ill-mannered) for a man to take off his jacket during a black-tie social event; but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the ranking man (of the royal family, the guest of honour) may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain communities.
Trousers
Black-tie suit trousers have no turn-ups (cuffs) or belt loops. The outer leg seams may be decorated with a single, silk braid matching the lapel facing. Customarily, braces (suspenders in the U.S.) hold up the trousers; they are hidden either by the waistcoat, which may be backless, or by the coat: hence it is bad social form for a man to take off his coat. Recently, flat-front, pleatless trousers feature in some styles of dinner dress; like all innovations in formal wear the feature’s appropriateness is debated.
Waistcoat or Cummerbund
The waist is dressed in either a waistcoat (vest) or a cummerbund (not both) when wearing a single-breasted coat. Usually, the waistcoat is low-cut, has a three-button stance, and of the same cloth as the jacket. The cummerbund sash (from military dress uniform in British India) is worn pleats up, and is of the same cloth as the bow tie and lapels. (White waistcoats with black tie are a rare alternative.)
Shirt
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