The World’s Most Complicated Watch, the Yellow Gold Calibre 89 Patek Philippe – Genève is sold for a total of Sfr 5,120,000 to a private collector in Asia…

A spectacular and unique, keyless three-barrel, double dial, astronomical and astrological 18K yellow gold watch with sidereal time, second time zone, time of sunrise and sunset, equation of time, perpetual calendar, century leap year correction, century, decade and year indication, four year cycle indication, season, equinox, solstice and Zodiac indication, star chart, phases and age of the moon, date of Easter indication, split-seconds chronograph, hour and minute recorders, Westminster chime on four gongs, “Grande and Petite Sonnerie”, alarm, up/down indicators for the going and striking train, three way setting indicator, winding crown position indicator, thermometer and Tourbillon regulator. Accompanied by the Extract from the Archives and a fitted hardwood box.

C. Four-body, “bassine”, polished. D. Front: cream with applied yellow gold Breguet numerals, retrograde date sector, hour and minute recording dials combined with the power reserve sectors for the going and striking trains, moon phase, year, month, day and four-year cycle apertures, second time zone, thermometer, winding crown position indicator, alarm indicator, outer 1/5th seconds scale with five minute/seconds red Arabic markers and subsidiary constant seconds. Blued steel and yellow gold hands. Back: Silvered with hours of sidereal time, date of Easter sector, sun-rise and sun-set dials, subsidiary sidereal seconds, equation of time sector, sun hand and aperture for the star chart. Blued steel and yellow gold hands. M. Cal. 89, three barrels on four levels, maillechort, 600 grams, fausses cotes decoration, 126 jewels, 1728 parts, straight-line lever escapement, Gyromax balance, blued-steel Breguet balance spring, adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and five positions, tourbillion regulator. Dial side main plate: mechanisms for the chime, alarm, 12-hour recorder and the power reserve indicators for the chime and movement. Reverse main plate, mechanisms for mean time, the chronograph, the 30-minute recorder and the tourbillon regulator. Plate 2: Mechanisms for sidereal time, the season, solstices, equinoxes and solstice, the times of sunrise and sunset, the equation of time, the date of Easter and the star chart. Plate 3: The mechanisms for the secular perpetual calendar, the second time zone, the phases and age of the moon and the thermometer. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 88.2 mm, 41.07 mm thick (with the crystals), total weight 1100 grams.

From The Matsuda Collection Lot 364
Yoshiho Matsuda was born in Tokyo, Japan, where he graduated from the Economic Department of the prestigious Keio University. The Matsuda Collection is one of the world’s finest private collections of Patek Philippe watches and Ferrari automobiles. Mr. Matsuda’s initiation to Western culture came when he lived in the United States, where he learned about collecting artwork, paintings and watches. One of the pioneers of Hakone’s car museums, Yoshiho Matsuda built the now closed Porsche museum in 1981. Following its closing, he went on to open the Art City Museum of Art in 1996, which included artworks by the likes of Warhol and Lichtenstein, as well as glass art. In 1998, this evolved into the current Ferrari Museum of Art, where a portion of Mr. Matsuda’s collection of art, Ferraris and watches is on display. Mr. Matsuda has been the leading contributor to spreading knowledge of European classic and historic cars and Swiss watches in Japan.

The Most Complicated Watch in the World with 33 Complications

Introduction and Historical Information
The Calibre 89 is an open-faced astronomical clockwatch with two main dials. It was made in four unique examples; one each in yellow, pink, and white gold, and one in platinum. By accepted reckoning, the Calibre 89 has 33 complications which fall into five main categories: timekeeping, the calendar, the chronograph, the chime and the operational functions. The Calibre 89 was built by a team of watchmakers at Patek Philippe, Geneva, to mark the company’s 150th anniversary. Preliminary calculations and designs were started in 1980, a working prototype was ready in July 1988, and the watch was finally completed in April 1989. The standards of manufacture are commensurate with the requirements of the Geneva Seal. This poincon or hallmark is awarded to Geneva-made watches that meet the standards of manufacture described in the laws of the Republic and Canton of Geneva of November 6, 1886, amended on October 23, 1959, governing the inspection of watches. The present watch is the first Calibre 89, it is made in yellow gold and was sold by Antiquorum in our April 9, 1989 sale, “The Art of Patek Philippe”, as lot 301. This piece, and the other three watches, were purchased by a single Royal family. The collection was dispersed in the early 2000′s: this yellow gold watch was bought by an important collector and was in his private museum; the pink gold watch was bought by an important Italian collector; the platinum watch was bought by a Middle-Eastern Royal family, to be placed in their private museum; the white gold watch was the last to be offered or sale and was included in the Antiquorum auction celebrating our 30th anniversary on April 24 & 25, 2004, lot 301.

The Movement Level 1
The movement of the Calibre 89 is on four levels contained on three plates made of maillechort – an alloy also known as German silver. The 126-jewel movement is driven by a single mainspring barrel and regulated by a tourbillon regulator. Two other mainspring barrels power the chime and the alarm. The movement has a diameter of 71.5 millimeters, including the mountings for the plates, and is 28.05 millimeters thick. It weighs 600 grams (19.29 oz). On this side of the main plate are found the mechanisms for the chime, the alarm, the 12-hour recorder and the power reserve (up-down) indicators for the chime and movement.

The Movement Level 2
The movement contains 1278 parts, including 332 screws, 184 wheels, 61 bridges, 68 springs, 126 jewel bearings, 24 hands, eight discs, two main dials and 429 composite mechanical components. The mechanisms for mean time, the chronograph, and the 30-minute recorder, as well as the tourbillon, are mounted on the other side of the main plate. The tourbillon can be seen on the left at about 8 o’clock.

The Movement Level 3
The functions of the watch are controlled and set by 12 external slide-pieces, push-pieces and winders. The second plate holds the mechanisms for the functions of the sidereal dial, namely: sidereal time, the seasons, solstices, equinoxes and zodiacs, the times of sunset and sunrise, the equation of time, the date of Easter and the star chart. The crenellated cam for the date of Easter, surmounted by its snail cam, can be seen just below the engraved bridge at the top.

The Movement Level 4
The mechanisms for the secular perpetual calendar, the second time zone indicator, the phases of the moon and the thermometer are supported by the third plate, which faces the mean time dial. The secular perpetual calendar mechanism is under the disc bearing the names of the months at the right of the movement. The century wheel and its satellite that completes a revolution every 400 years, are hidden by the bridge plate at 3 o’clock.

The Tourbillon Regulator
The tourbillon regulator, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), compensates for errors arising when the watch adopts different positions in relation to the prevailing gravitational field. The design requires the balance wheel and escapement mechanism to be mounted in a cage which itself revolves, usually at one revolution per minute. The tourbillon ensures that the load is evenly distributed on all sides of every bearing in the regulator, largely irrespective of the changing position of the watch. In the Calibre 89, improvements were made to Breguet’s original concept. Instead of placing the tourbillon regulator in its traditional position as part of the fourth wheel of the main drive-train, the fourth wheel engages the cogged rim of the tourbillon’s cage. The fourth wheel of the train not only drives the seconds hand and the tourbillon, but also the chronograph and the 32-wheel mechanism of sidereal time. The principal elements of the cage are made of titanium. The cage and escapement are made of 54 pieces and weigh 0.73 grams. The cage revolves once every two minutes. The escapement is of the straight-line, Swiss lever type. The escape wheel has 20 teeth.

The Gyromax Balance Wheel
The balance wheel is of the Gyromax type with variable inertia, vibrating at 18,000 beats an hour, or five times a second. The balance wheel and its inertia blocks are cut from 14K gold. The Gyromax is a monometallic balance wheel having inertia blocks arranged around its circumference. The inertia blocks, which are slotted gold weights mounted on pins, provide an elegant means of adjusting the balance wheel, for they may be turned to increase or reduce the effective radius of the balance wheel at one or another point on its circumference. The Gyromax balance wheel enables the regulatory mechanism of the Calibre 89 to be adjusted with greater precision and convenience than regulators equipped with the conventional index. The hairspring is free-sprung with a Breguet overcoil. The 19 pieces making up the balance wheel assembly, with its arbor and mounting, weigh 0.98 grams. The Gyromax balance wheel was invented by Patek Philippe & Cie, and is protected by Swiss patent No. 261431 of May 15, 1949 and Swiss patent No. 280067 of December 31, 1951.

The Case
The open-face case for the Calibre 89 complicated watch is cut from three pieces of 18K yellow gold. The case, in the Geneva “bassine” style, consists of a central case band which supports the movement, and two bezels in which the protecting glasses are set. The pendant and winding-stem are at 12 o’clock according to the pattern established by the French watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine and which bears his name. The neck of the pendant is a boss that forms an integral part of the case band. The two main dials are made from discs of 14K gold, with a vapor of silver condensed on their surfaces to form an opalescent coating. The dials are mounted directly on the second and third plates of the movement. The glasses are made of corundum (sapphire) crystal and will resist scratches from virtually every common material except diamond. They are in the shape of a circle cut from the surface of a hollow sphere. The case has a diameter of 88.2 millimeters and is 36.55 millimeters thick without the glass, and 41.07 millimeters thick with the glass. It weighs 500 grams (16.075 oz). The total weight of the watch is 1100 grams (35.365 oz).

The Timekeeping Function
The hours, minutes and seconds of mean time The hours and minutes of mean time are recorded by blued-steel hands in the Breguet style against a scale marked in 18K gold Breguet numerals applied in relief. The seconds are indicated by a straight, small seconds hand rotating in a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock on the solar dial. Mean time may be set by pulling the winding crown up to the position B and moving the slide-piece at 11 o’clock to CL. The hands are then made to advance by turning the winding crown anti-clockwise. The unit of time according to which most clocks and watches record time is the mean second – an 86,400th part of the mean day. The mean day is a constant unit of time calculated from the average length of 365 apparent solar days. The length of an apparent solar day, which is the period between the sun’s successive transits of the observer’s meridian, changes according to the Earth’s position in its elliptical orbit, and is thus not suitable as a basis for timekeeping.
The time in a second time zone A gold Breguet hour hand indicates the hours of a second time zone against the main scale of the solar dial. The independent hour hand is mounted on the canon pinion of the hour wheel, but it can be moved forwards in increments of one hour with each pressure on the push-piece at 11 o’clock. The mechanism for the independent hour hand is based on a design patented in Switzerland by Patek Philippe & Cie on July 31, 1959 under the number 340191. The independent hour hand enables a traveler to adjust his watch according to the standard time in different time zones without advancing the minute hand.

The Mean Time Dial

The Sidereal Time Dial
1.- Day of the month 2.- Hours of mean time 3.- 12-hour recorder 4.- Up-down chime 5.- Day of the week 6.- Hour in a second time zone 7.-Chronograph 8.- Seconds of mean time 9.- Phases of the moon 10.- Winding crown-position indicator 11.- Century, decade and year 12.- Year in the four-year cycle 13.- Minutes of mean time 14.- 30-minute recorder 15.- Up-down movement 16.- Month 17.- Split seconds 18.- Thermometer 19.- Hours of sidereal time 20.- Date of Easter 21.- Minutes of sidereal time 22.- Time of sunrise 23.- Equation of time 24.- Seconds of sidereal time 25.- Star chart 26.- Sun hand 27.- Time of sunset

The Equation of Time
The equation of time is indicated by a blued steel hand against a penannular scale at 12 o’clock on the sidereal dial. The scale ranges from minus 17 minutes to plus 17 minutes. The movement of the hand is governed by a cam driven off the mechanism for sidereal time. The equation of time indicated corresponds to the season shown by the sun hand, which is also driven by the sidereal time mechanism. The equation of time is the difference in minutes between mean time and apparent solar time. It is a conversion factor that ranges from plus 14 minutes and 59 seconds (on or about February 12) to minus 16 minutes and 15 seconds (on or about November 3). On or about April 15, June 14, September 1 and December 24, the value of the equation of time is zero. A knowledge of the equation of time is necessary for navigators who observe the altitude of the true sun at a time noted from a watch keeping mean time.

The Hours, Minutes and Seconds of Sidereal Time
The sidereal time is shown on the sidereal dial by blued-steel hands in the Breguet style against a 24-hour scale. The sidereal seconds are indicated by a straight, small seconds-hand revolving in a subsidiary dial at 12:00. The 32-wheel movement for sidereal time is driven from the fourth wheel of the main movement. The conversion of mean time to sidereal time is made through a reduction train which results in a sidereal second equal to 0.9972677 of a mean second in the Calibre 89 watch. The sidereal second recorded by the Calibre 89 is thus slightly shorter than the true sidereal second, which is 0.9972696 of a mean second. The sidereal time shown by the Calibre 89 gains on mean time at a rate of 3.94512 minutes a day, which means that it will have gained a full 24 hours in a year. Sidereal time may be set by pulling the winding crown to position B and setting the slide-piece to CS. The hands of sidereal time are advanced by turning the winding crown anti-clockwise. Advancing the hands indicating sidereal time also causes the sun hand and the star chart to advance proportionally. The unit of sidereal time is the sidereal day, which is the period between the successive transits of the observer’s meridian by the vernal equinox, also known as the first point of Aries. The first point of Aries, being a hypothetical point, is at an infinite distance from the observer. As a point of reference it enables a more regular scale of time than that afforded by using the sun as a reference. Sidereal time is of interest to the navigator who needs to determine the hour-angle of a star.

The Times of Sunrise and Sunset
The hours and minutes of sunrise at Geneva (latitude 46° 11’ 59” north), corresponding to the time of year indicated by the sun hand, are shown on a clock face on a subsidiary dial at 16:00 on the sidereal dial. The hours and minutes of sunset are shown on a similar clock face at 08:00. The indication of the time of sunset and sunrise is governed by cam-based mechanisms. The cams can be replaced for latitudes other than that of Geneva. The times indicated are within five minutes of true sunset or sunrise, which is when the sun’s upper limb is on the true horizon of an observer at sea level. True sunset or sunrise is normally corrected to allow for the refraction of the earth’s atmosphere.

For Patek Philippe, the launch of a new hand-wound chronograph movement developed and crafted entirely in-house is a further manifestation of the manufacture’s independence and spirit of innovation. The traditional column-wheel-controlled CH 29-535 PS caliber proudly shows off its roots, standing out with several innovations and patented improvements that optimize the chronograph’s functionality and reliability. As an elegant tribute to the feminine mystique, this exceptional movement will first tick in a wristwatch chronograph dedicated to premiere as a ladies’ model. Hence the name “Ladies First Chronograph”. It begins a new chapter in Patek Philippe’s longstanding commitment to ladies’ timepieces. At the same time, it ushers in a new, long awaited era for all enthusiasts of mechanical chronographs. The CH 29-535 PS caliber and the Ref. 7071R “Ladies First Chronograph” had their debut in Paris in early November. The inauguration of the new Patek Philippe showrooms on Place Vendôme – totally renovated and remodeled in the past months – was the welcome occasion.

Within the extensive portfolio of complications that demonstrate Patek Philippe’s virtuosity in timekeeping, the chronograph has always played a pivotal role. With many patented technical innovations to its credit as well as its continuous quest for combining performance with refined and understated aesthetic appeal, the Geneva-based manufacture has evolved to become one of the most respected makers of this comparatively technical category of timepieces. Born in the 1820s, chronographs today are perfect icons of our modern era.

An eminent name in chronographs
In the second half of the 19th century, Patek Philippe was already crafting unique pocket chronometers with and without split-seconds hands. The mechanisms for the measurement of short time spans were often merged with other refined complications such as a perpetual calendar or a minute repeater. This was the case in two watches presented in 1878 at the Paris Universal Exposition, where the manufacture was awarded a gold medal. In 1893, the company received a patent for a minute-counter isolator mechanism. In 1902, this was followed by a patent for a “double chronograph” with a second mechanism – also called rattrapante – that allowed the concurrent recording of a series of time measurements of different durations. In 1904, Patek Philippe was granted a patent for an instantaneously advancing minute-counter mechanism.

When the wristwatch gained popularity during the 1920s, Patek Philippe was a trendsetter in the miniaturization of the chronograph. In 1923, the company created a split-seconds wrist chronograph on special order, the first of its kind in the world. Starting in 1927, wrist chronographs with and without split-seconds hands were added to the schedule of regularly produced watches. Their Art Deco cases appeared in many different forms: round, square, rectangular, tonneau, and cushionshaped. The chronograph calibers were based on exclusive movement blanks produced by the best artisans, masterpieces of technical and aesthetic perfection in their own right.

For Patek Philippe, the 1930s were the golden age of wrist chronographs. The collection included eleven references for simple chronographs, among them the acclaimed Ref. 130 introduced in 1934, as well as three split-seconds chronographs. In the community of collectors, these pre-war chronographs are highly coveted Patek Philippe timepieces and regularly fetch record prices at international auctions.

During the 1940s and 1950s, this fascinating collection continued to evolve. Often, the chronographs were endowed with additional complications such as perpetual calendars, and many timelessly classic versions were presented, including the Ref. 1463 in a water-resistant case.

In 1986, Patek Philippe opened a new chapter in its chronicle of chronographs by presenting the famous manually wound caliber CH 27-70 based on a Nouvelle Lémania movement blank produced exclusively for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the manufacture. In 1996, the workshops received a patent for a split-seconds chronograph mechanism with an isolator catch that totally eliminated rate accuracy deviations when lap times were stopped.

In 2005, Patek Philippe attracted considerable attention with the thinnest split-seconds column-wheel chronograph movement ever made. The hand-wound caliber CH R 27-525 PS, of which only a few are produced each year, was the first chronograph movement developed and manufactured entirely inhouse.

Only one year later, the manufacture delighted patient enthusiasts with the launch of its first totally proprietary self-winding chronograph movement: the CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H with the patented Annual Calendar.

A new day for celebrating
This year’s launch of the CH 29-535 PS movement is the reward for five years of development work. It is also an important milestone for the workshops which now have a new manually wound chronograph movement designed and manufactured entirely in-house. To arrive at this point, Patek Philippe had to mobilize the full breadth of skills and experience of its team to devise an exceptional mechanism that matches and in many instances exceeds the CH 27-70 movement – still deemed by connoisseurs and aficionados as the most beautiful traditional chronograph caliber ever made. But the effort has paid off: the CH 29-535 PS is a worthy successor of the legendary movement. With its flawless technology and artisanal finish, it is a perfect ambassador of Patek Philippe’s uncompromising quality philosophy.

Additionally, the CH 29-535 PS creates fresh latitude for further developments and a new generation of wristwatch chronographs with and without extra complications. As a traditional chronograph movement, it will gradually replace the current (Nouvelle Lémania-based) caliber CH 27-70. The CH 29- 535 PS is an important enrichment of the portfolio of Patek Philippe movements which now encompasses 21 basis calibers with a total of 45 different versions.

Traditional caliber architecture
The CH 29-535 PS is based on the principle of the column wheel, no doubt the defining hallmark of truly beautiful mechanical chronographs. At Patek Philippe, it is crowned with a polished cap. The watch has a large chronograph hand, a seconds sub-dial, and an instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter. Its large four-spoke Gyromax balance wheel with four poising weights beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations/hour). The caliber has a power reserve of 65 hours (58 hours when the chronograph is activated). The clutch lever exhibits the classic “S” shape. The aesthetic design vocabulary also extends to the chronograph wheel bridge and the minute-counter bridge. The movement has a stop-seconds feature that makes it very convenient to accurately synchronize the watch with an official time signal.

The heritage of innovation
Even though the CH 29-535 PS movement is based on the classic architecture of column-wheel control and a geared clutch system, it is a brilliant masterpiece that unites six patented innovations – each one is a manifestation of the workshops’ inventive spirit. The caliber engineers examined all of the essential components of the chronograph mechanism and embarked on the quest for new solutions that would improve precision, reliability, longevity, and convenience. Their focus always remained on functionality and user-friendliness as stipulated by the principles of horological artistry and by the Patek Philippe Seal.

The six patents behind the CH 29-535 PS movement
The development of the CH 29-535 PS movement culminated in six patents and patent applications that represent the latest advances in chronograph technology.

1) Optimized tooth profile
The wheels of the chronograph mechanism feature an exclusive patented tooth profile (presented for the first time in 2005 when the ultra-thin caliber CH R 27-525 PS split-seconds chronograph was launched). It eliminates the risk of hand jump in both directions when starting a measurement, limits chronograph hand quiver, increases energy transmission efficiency, and reduces friction as well as wear in the movement.

2) Improved penetration adjustment between the clutch and the chronograph wheel
The adjustment between the teeth of the clutch wheel and the teeth of the chronograph wheel is performed by a large eccentric column wheel cap, working directly with the tip of the clutch lever instead of the conventional eccentric placed next to the clutch wheel. This new system enables a more precise adjustment of the penetration between the clutch and the chronograph wheel.

3) Improved synchronization between the clutch lever and the blocking lever
Ordinarily, the clutch lever and the blocking lever are synchronized by the column wheel. The engineers of the CH 29-535 PS eliminated this intermediate step by fitting the clutch lever with a finger piece that directly synchronizes both the clutch lever and the blocking lever. This solution simplifies and improves the precision adjustment of the control sequences because the watchmaker only has to adjust one point instead of two as was the case in the past. Moreover, this approach suppresses jumps of the chronograph hand when time measurements are started and stopped.

4) Pierced-out minute-counter cam
A new minute-counter cam was created with a slot to prevent abrupt blocking in response to the reset command and therefore considerably reduces hand quiver.

5) Self-setting return to zero hammers
The reset hammers of the chronograph are equipped with a self-setting system that makes it unnecessary to mechanically adjust the minute hammer function and thus increases the reliability of the mechanism.

6) Hammers pivoted between jewels
The engineers provided separate bilaterally jeweled bearings for both the seconds and minutes hammers on the same axis. Each hammer is pressed against its respective heart cam with its own spring. This system assures that the hammers remain precisely aligned in the vertical direction and improves the smoothness of their rotation.

Ingenious special features
The architecture of the CH 29-535 PS movement also exhibits a number of other remarkable features that have just as positive an impact on its functionality and performance as the six patented inventions associated with the development of the new chronograph movement. One of them is the instantaneous 30-minute counter that is much more difficult to engineer than a semi-instantaneous or continuous counter. This clever device advances the small minute hand within fractions of a second, resulting in greater accuracy and clarity of the reading. Another example is the driving wheel of the chronograph: it is integrated directly in the train and does not need to be separately assembled by the watchmaker. This construction improves the reliability of the chronograph functions.

Incomparable precision
The new CH 29-535 PS caliber combines Patek Philippe’s ancestral know-how with latest-generation patented technologies. These innovations allow the watchmaker to focus on refining functionality and on achieving high-precision rate accuracy. This not only addresses customer expectations but also assures compliance with the strict precision criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal.

Excerpt from the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal:
“In the course of various levels of completion, the rate accuracy of Patek Philippe watches is tested in both raw and fully cased movements. The final check of rate accuracy is performed with kinetic simulators and the results must be in line with the following Patek Philippe precision benchmarks:
• For calibers with diameters of 20 mm or more, the rate accuracy must lie within the range of -3 and +2 seconds per 24 hours (rounded to integers).

A great aesthetic challenge
As befits Patek Philippe’s heritage, the CH 29-535 PS presents itself as a new point of reference for aesthetic appeal and artisanal workmanship. Its salient features include captivatingly elegant components and old-style bridges that are meticulously chamfered, polished, and decorated with Geneva striping. Every surface, no matter how small, is beautifully finished in numerous consecutive steps, most of them manually executed. And in compliance with the criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal, none of the movement embellishments interfere in any way with the caliber’s functional integrity.

Ref. 7071R “Ladies First Chronograph”: The first Patek Philippe wrist chronograph to celebrate its debut as a model for ladies

More and more women have discovered a penchant for complicated wristwatches, especially those designed and crafted by Patek Philippe according to the finest traditions of horological artistry. They are attracted to the functionality and seductive beauty of chronographs. That is why Patek Philippe decided to initially launch its latest caliber with this attractive complication in a woman’s format. The Ref. 7071R “Ladies First Chronograph” enriches the manufacture’s collection of elegant and intricate watches explicitly designed for feminine wrists.

A memorable lesson in style
Inspired by Patek Philippe’s Art Deco watches from the 1930s, the Ref. 7071R comes in an elegant, cushion-shaped case with rounded angles. Its inimitably complex form can only be crafted by talented artisans. Its contemporary design is enriched by the warmth of 18K rose gold, the only precious metal in which the case is available. The rectangular buttons that activate the chronograph functions are eminently ergonomic, as is the fluted crown used to wind the movement.

The dial is available in silvery opaline or black with a guilloched pattern center. It has two subsidiary dials for the small seconds and for the 30-minute counter. Both sub-dials are slightly offset beneath the center axis of the large hands. This unusual arrangement is emphasized by the asymmetric scales for the seconds sub-dial and the minute counter. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in rose gold with luminescent coatings, elongated Roman numerals, the arrow-style chronograph hand, the fine baton hands for the subsidiary dials, and the railway track minute scale assure outstanding legibility.

The precious stone complement is as exclusive as the movement: the Ref. 7071R displays 136 full-cut round diamonds that embrace the round dial. Consummately set by master jewelers beneath the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass, they radiate a fascinatingly prismatic firework of color that compliments the lady’s wrist and adds a gentle touch of feminine mystique to this technical watch.

The hand-stitched alligator straps are attached to the case with hinged lugs to assure a luxuriously comfortable fit on any feminine wrist.

All external elements – the case, the dial, the strap and the precious stone settings – are designed, crafted, and finished according to the very strict provisions of the Patek Philippe Seal, a unique promise of quality that applies to the watch in its entirety.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the beauty of the new CH 29-535 PS movement – its elegant geometry, the graceful decorations, and the captivating choreography of its 269 parts. For the time being, this première is for ladies only. As the saying goes: Ladies First …

World debut at the renovated Patek Philippe showrooms in Paris

Extraordinary engineering with an unusual name: the new CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement and the new Ref. 7071R “Ladies First Chronograph” premiered in early November on the occasion of the festive reopening of Patek Philippe’s showrooms in Paris. Established in 1995, the salon is located on 10 Place Vendôme, one of the world’s most illustrious addresses. Now, the showrooms have been enlarged, renovated, and totally redesigned to offer visitors more space, luxury, comfort, and hospitality. The venue in Paris exhibits the same Art Deco ambiance as the Patek Philippe salons in London and New York. Customers and connoisseurs are welcomed on two floors with nearly twice the former floor space. The spirit of tradition and innovation that prevails in Geneva is literally palpable here. While it is a seductive oasis for international clients who visit this exclusive sanctuary of haute horlogerie, Patek Philippe’s Place Vendôme venue also extends a standing invitation to the growing community of watch lovers in Paris and throughout France who are fascinated by its creations.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION – Chronograph Ref. 7071R
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Movement
Caliber CH 29-535 PS
Manually wound mechanical movement, column-wheel chronograph, chronograph hand, subsidiary seconds, and 30-minute counter
Diameter: 29.60 mm
Height: 5.35 mm
Number of parts: 269
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: 65 hours
Balance: 4-spoke Gyromax, 4 poising weights
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Functions: Two-position crown:
- Pushed in: to wind watch
- Pulled out: to set time and stop seconds
Displays: Center hours and minutes
Chronograph hand
Subsidiary dials:
- 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
- Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock
Buttons: – Chronograph start/stop at 2 o’clock
- Chronograph reset at 4 o’clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Features
Case: 18K rose gold, sapphire-crystal glass and sapphire-crystal back secured
with four polished screws
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Width (from 9 to 3 o’clock): 35 mm
Length (from 12 to 6 o’clock): 39 mm
Height: 10.95 mm
Width between lugs: 18.20 mm
Dial: Two-tone silvery opaline or black with guilloched “flame” pattern
Railway-track minute scale on perimeter of dial
Silvery opaline dial
Eight brown hour markers
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with luminescent coating
Arrow-style chronograph hand, counterbalanced, painted brown
Off-center subsidiary dials, white with circular guilloché pattern:
- Baton-style seconds hand, counterbalanced, painted brown
- Baton-style minute-counter hand, counterbalanced, painted brown
Opaline black dial with guilloched “flame” pattern
Eight baton-style applied hour markers in 18K rose gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with luminescent coating
Arrow-style chronograph hand, counterbalanced, painted white
Off-center subsidiary dials with circular guilloché pattern:
- Baton-style seconds hand in 18K rose gold, counterbalanced
- Baton-style minute-counter hand in 18K rose gold, counterbalanced
Precious stones: Approx. 0.58 ct. (136 round diamonds set in the dial flange)
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator, matt white for the model with the black dial and brown with white stitching for the model with the white dial, 18-mm prong buckle in 18K rose gold

To celebrate the opening of its new Art Deco salon at n°10 de la place Vendôme, Patek Philippe unveiled a lovely new timepiece called the “First Ladies Chronograph”, Ref. 70171 R.

The First Ladies Chronograph is an extension of the salon’s signature 1930s Art Deco style, with a rose gold cushion case and rounded lugs. Notably, the First Ladies Chronograph design team was made up entirely of women and no details were left to chance. The dial is available in either silver opaline or black with guilloché, with two chronograph registers below the central axis, and feuille hands in rose gold.

There are 136 diamonds embellished around the bezel. This elegant touch makes the difference. The sapphire caseback allows one to admire the 269 components of the beautiful new CH 29-535 PS caliber. While many watch companies invariably involve quartz and femininity, Patek Philippe – whose expertise in the world of mechanical chronographs is no longer a part – has decided to pose as a revolutionary vision. This will be a mechanical chronograph with manual winding column-wheel available to Ladies!

CH 29-535 PS

Elegance, refinement, sophistication: the three values cherished by Patek Philippe and seal are concentrated in the CH 29-535 PS. No fewer than six patented innovations have been filed by the factory at the time of the creation of this movement to later equip in men’s watches. The features? A profile of optimized gears – introduced in 2005 on the chronographe à rattrapante extra-plat CH R 27 525 PS – which increases the efficiency in energy transmission and reduces friction. An eccentric hat on top of the column wheel (*un chapeau excentrique au-dessus de la roue à colonnes) for better control of penetration gear .

Optimization of the clutch with the addition of a finger on the switch to synchronize directly the two bodies. A very successful openwork cam minute meter to cushion shocks during the reset. The creation of compensated reset hammers. And finally, the innovation of a pivoting hammers – seconds and minutes – ensuring a precise fit to their height. It is unclear whether women who wear the Ladies First Chronograph will fully appreciate all these technical innovations. But with this timepiece, perhaps women will make their husbands mad with jealousy. If this happens, Patek Philippe has won the gamble at a wager of 51,000 euros each.

Following the exceptional results achieved in the September New York sale, Antiquorum held another successful auction of Important Collectors’ Wristwatches, Pocket Watches, Clocks & Horological Tools on October 3 & 4 in Geneva which set a new world record and totalled an impressive 4’336’380 CHF ($4,222,700). Of the 412 lots offered for sale, 78% were sold representing 115% in value. The auction enjoyed strong international internet and phone bidding from countries such as Mexico, Turkey, The US and China in addition to the enthusiastic bidders present in the room.

A new world record was achieved for a Patek Philippe Ref. 5059P (lot 377), a platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar and retrograde date selling for 114’000 CHF. Patek Philippe timepieces continue to achieve very strong prices as confirmed by the results for each of the three models of the Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 offered in the sale: the Ref. 1463 in pink gold (lot 412) with asthmometer dial sold for an impressive 372’000 CHF; while the Ref. 1463 in stainless steel (lot 197) reached 180’000 CHF. Finally, the Ref. 1463 in yellow gold (lot 196) achieved 120’000 CHF.

“The remarkable result for our October auction is confirmation of the increased strength of the watch market. Collectors are once again enthusiastically bidding on rare and collectible timepieces,” said Robert Maron, Chairman, Antiquorum. “Not only have we achieved excellent results here today, but coupled with the outcome of our September auction in New York, Antiquorum is unquestionably once again the market leader in horological auctions.”

Another highlight of the Antiquorum Geneva auction was the remarkable clock watch “The Hunt” with 13 complications (lot 354) a Grande Complication made for the Indian market by Gideon & Co. at Le Locle which sold for 198’000 CHF.

Also among the highly collectible pocket watches presented at the sale, a platinum minute-repeating carillon watch with Westminster Chimes from Edouard JeanRichard from Le Locle (lot 349) – one of only two known examples – reached 168’000 CHF.
Vacheron Constantin timepieces also achieved outstanding results, in particular the magnificent baguette diamond-set lady’s bracelet watch (lot 100) with a superb result of 96’000 CHF; as well as a very fine and extremely rare minute-repeater 8-day desk clock (lot 98), which inspired a fierce battle in the room among collectors, eventually selling for 38’400 CHF – more than four times its low estimate.

The auction saw the return of exceptional Tourbillon watches with the “Tourbillon Skeleton”, No. 00/12, from Schwarz Etienne (lot 189) which stirred enthusiastic and aggressive internet bidding, ultimately selling for 156’000 CHF. In addition, the Breguet “Tourbillon Squelette”, Ref. 3355 PT (lot 344) sold for a significant 132’000 CHF.
Rolex watches also obtained first-rate results with a Rolex Stainless Steel “Perpetual Precision” Ref. 8171 (lot 397), one of the most sought after models by collectors, acquired for 114’000 CHF after competitive bidding worldwide.

Finally, the extremely fine and highly complicated Orrery Astrolabium Celestial Clock from Christian Van der Klaauw, Joure, No 41/50 (lot 157) reached 66’000 CHF, nearly double its low estimate.

“We are very pleased by the results for our first auction of the season in Geneva,” said William Rohr, COO, Antiquorum.” We’re particularly delighted by the increased demand for tourbillon watches which achieved excellent prices in today’s sale. “With today’s extraordinary outcome, we look forward to our next auction in November which will include an impressive collection of exceptional cloisonné timepieces, some of which are rarely seen at auction.”

Lot 412
Ref. 1463, Pink Gold – Asthmometer Dial Patek Philippe, Genève, movement No. 863918, case No. 644760, Ref. 1463. Made in 1946, sold on July 9th, 1947. Extremely fine and exceptionally rare, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register, asthmometer scale graduated for 5 respirations and a Patek Philippe 18K pink gold expandable bracelet with deployant clasp by Gay Frères. Accompanied by the Extract from the Archives.
Sold including buyer’s premium: CHF 372,000

Lot 354
The Hunt Watch with 13 Complications Gideon & Co., Locle, Swiss, No. 86825, the movement attributable to Henry Grandjean & Cie., (Le Locle). Made for the Indian market, circa 1900, sold to the Sixth Nizam of Hyderabad, Mahbub Ali Khan (reigned 1869 –1911). Very fine, important and rare, grande and petite sonnerie, minute-repeating, heavy 18K yellow gold, painted on enamel and rose-cut diamond-set eight day going two-train keyless clockwatch with triple date, chronograph, central progressive minute recording hand, moon phases and lunar calendar.
Sold including buyer’s premium: CHF 198,000

Lot 197
Ref. 1463, Stainless Steel Patek Philippe & Co., Genève, No. 862997, case No. 625762, Ref. 1463. Made in 1942, sold on July 19th, 1944. Very fine and extremely rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, 30-minute register, tachometer and a Patek Philippe stainless steel buckle. Accompanied by the Extract from the Archives.

Sold including buyer’s premium: CHF 180,000

Next Antiquorum Sales – 2009:
Geneva: Saturday 14 & Sunday 15 November
New York: Wednesday 9 & Thursday 10 December

About Antiquorum
Established in Geneva in 1974, with the addition of its New York affiliate Antiquorum USA in 1994, Antiquorum has carved its own unparalleled niche in the auction world by cultivating a thriving collector’s market for timepieces worldwide.

An impressive 49 of the 81 watches sold publicly by major auction houses for over SFr. 1,000,000 were sold by Antiquorum. In 2002, Antiquorum set the all-time world record for a wristwatch at auction, selling a unique 1939 platinum Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 1415 for US$ 4,026,524 (SFr. 6,603,500) – more than double the previous world record. Another record price for a modern watch was achieved in 2004, the unique white gold Calibre 89, also by Patek Philippe, was sold for SFr. 6,603,500 (US$ 5,002,652). Among the world records in 2005, the “Tour de l’Ile”, at US$ 1,564,000 (SFr. 1,876,250), set a world record for a contemporary wristwatch and the “King Fouad I”, at US$ 2,755,000 (SFr. 3,306,250), achieved the highest price ever paid for a Vacheron Constantin. Another record was achieved in 2009, when Gandhi’s pocket watch, sandals, glasses, bowl and thali, sold for an astounding $2,096,000.

Antiquorum holds approximately ten auctions a year, in Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong, with previews held in major cities worldwide. In addition to its auction centers in Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong, Antiquorum maintains offices and agents in Paris, Milan, London, Munich, Shanghai, Tokyo, and Moscow.

Patek Philippe’s presents a new interpretation of its ultra-thin ladies Calatrava Ref. 4897 in a warm 18K rose gold case, a dial with a bittersweet chocolate hue, and a bezel adorned with 72 Top Wesselton round diamonds. It is a mechanical opus that redefines seductiveness.

The growing interest of women in artisanal horology is evidenced by the success of the ultra-thin mechanical Calatrava for ladies that Patek Philippe launched three years ago. To accommodate demand, this watch is now being launched as Ref. 4897R in 18K rose gold.

A DIAL IN STYLE
The case shape of the Ref. 4897R reflects the sleek lines of the Bauhaus philosophy: form follows function is the leitmotif of all Calatrava models. Its personality mirrors classic elegance not only with its focus on the display of hours and minutes but also with the 72 Top Wesselton round diamonds on its bezel. Here, eternity subtly contrasts with the constant course of time. This antithesis takes place on a dramatic stage that glows in the dark brown hue of bittersweet chocolate. On the dial, the concentrically guilloched wave pattern interacts with a rich brown to create a fascinating impression of depth. The applied arrow-shaped hour markers and the faceted hands in rose gold appear to be suspended in mid-air.

THE 4-HERTZ HEARTBEAT
The Calatrava Ref. 4897R is powered by Patek Philippe’s manually wound caliber 215 mechanical movement. Although it is ultra-thin and highly compact (height 2.55 mm, diameter 21.90 mm), it fulfills the rate accuracy requirements imposed on all of Patek Philippe’s mechanical movements.

The Calatrava Ref. 4897R for ladies in 18K rose gold replaces its predecessor, the Ref. 4896 G with the white-gold case and deep blue dial. The sheer beauty of the new model, its discreet radiance, the 6.35­mm thick case, and its rich inner life endow this ultra-thin Patek Philippe Calatrava with all the facets it needs to become a celebrated paragon of feminine elegance.

TECHNICAL DETAILS
Calatrava Ref. 4897 R

Movement : Caliber 215
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 21.90 mm
Height: 2.55 mm
Number of parts: 130
Number of jewels: 18
power reserve: Approx. 44 hours
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Flat
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions: Two-position crown:
- Pulled out: To set the time
- Pushed in: To wind the movement
Displays: Hours, minutes

Features
Case: 18K rose gold with 72 diamonds. Snap back in 18K rose gold with sapphire-crystal window. Water-resistant to 25 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 33 mm
Overall height: 6.35 mm
Height crystal to back: 6.60 mm
Width between lugs: 17 mm
Dial: Dark chocolate, guilloched, 12 matt arrow markers, rose-gold-plated Dauphine hands for hours and minutes in 18K rose gold with 2 facets, 1 polished, 1 sandblasted Precious stone
complement: Bezel with 72 flawless Top Wesselton round diamonds, diameter 1.2 mm, total approx. 0.47 ct.
Strap: Satin, matt brown, 16-mm prong buckle in 18K rose gold

Brad Pitt’s unique taste in watches is quite exciting. It starts with a Patek Philippe Nautilus Watch in which is he is seen wearing here.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is both a masculine and a feminine watch , in white or pink gold with or without a diamond-set bezel and with a silvered white or anthracite dial. The exclusive design of the original Nautilus dial, a sport-chic watch par excellence, has been re-interpreted for the woman of today. The new case is presented in a new dimension – 32 mm instead of the 28.5 mm of the original Ref. 4700 model – in a highly contemporary composition. This model comes with exclusive white or pink gold rings inspired by the octagonal shape of the Nautilus bezel.

Additionally he was also see sporting both a IWC 3706 and a Gold Omega chronograph. He was supposed to wear a 18k ref 4500 Rolex 2 dial Oyster chronograph for the movie Seven years in Tibet but it instead wore a Gold Omega chronograph relates a TimeZone member who owns the watches. So Brad keep it up!

Patek Philippe Ref. 5106 Celestial Watch was created for Only Watch 2009. The case, in 18kt rose gold (with a bezel of 22kt rose gold), measures 44mm x 11mm. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movement is the automatic Patek caliber in-house 240LUCLC with 45 jewels and a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement measures 38mm x 7mm. Functions are: hours and minutes of local time (mean solar time), sky chart, time of meridian, passage of Sirius, time of meridian passage of moon, lunar orbit, moon phase and date on perimeter of dial.

The dial features three metalized sapphire crystal discs, with a apphire crystal glass with 31 metalized Arabic numerals as well as ellipse framing the portion of the sky visible from Geneva.

A lunar day is defined as the time between two consecutive passages of the moon across a specific meridian and on average lasts 24 hours, 50 minutes, and 28.328 seconds. A lunation – the time between two consecutive full moons – averages 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.82 seconds. A sidereal day is the time it takes for a fixed star (such as Sirius) to make one complete passage across a specific meridian and averages out to 23 hours, 56 minutes, and 4.09892 seconds. These deviations from mean solar time call for appropriate step-up or step-down transmission ratios in the gear trains that transfer the force from the mainspring barrel of the movement to the individual astronomical displays. So far, some of these ratios known in horology have delivered a more accurate moon phase display and a less accurate solar day, others have reproduced the solar day more accurately than the orbit of the moon.

But after having calculated more than 25 trillion (25,000,000,000,000) ratio combinations, Patek Philippe discovered the one single ratio that produces the highest degree of precision in all displays. The result surpasses all expectations:

• The lunar day is accurate to 0.05 seconds per day, 18.385 seconds per year, or 30 minutes and 38.5 seconds per century.
• The day is accurate to 0.088 seconds per sidereal day, 32,139 seconds per year, or 53 minutes and 33.9 seconds per century.
• The moon phase is accurate to 6.51 seconds per lunation.

The new standard of quality for mechanical watches: the Patek Philippe Seal

A new era begins for Patek Philippe in the spring of 2009: All of the manufacture’s mechanical movements will henceforth be embossed with the exclusive Patek Philippe Seal. This is the evolution of a philosophy of quality and independence that the workshops in Geneva have been systematically pursuing since the company was founded in 1839. The new label clearly expresses the very essence and distinctiveness of Patek Philippe: a level of perfection that far transcends what external statutes and official standards prescribe. After all, true passion can only come from within.

The Patek Philippe Seal: a logical step forward

For more than a century, the criteria of the Geneva Seal were observed in the development and completion of Patek Philippe’s mechanical movements, defining the minimum quality levels to be attained. But true to its tradition of ongoing innovation, the manufacture never stopped its quest for continuous improvements in regards to the performance of its timepieces.

Patek Philippe is a “complete” manufacture that not only sustains a unique level of vertical integration in movements but also produces its watch cases and other key exterior elements in-house. Thus, the quality specifications at Patek Philippe relate not merely to the movements but to the entire finished watch.

It is undisputed that a hallmark of quality must apply to the whole watch. This fact called for a new seal that defines all competencies and features of relevance to the manufacture, precision, and lifelong maintenance of a Patek Philippe timepiece.

The Patek Philippe Seal: a mark of excellence that applies to the entire watch

The Patek Philippe Seal announced by the Geneva workshops is the watch industry’s most exclusive and stringent hallmark of quality. The rules apply to all of the manufacture’s movements regardless of their complexity.

It not only applies to the movements: it encompasses cases, dials, hands, pushers, spring bars for straps, etc., as well as the aesthetic and functional aspects of the finished watches.

Moreover, given the fact that a Patek Philippe watch is first and foremost an instrument that measures time, the Patek Philippe Seal makes a binding statement regarding rate accuracy.

The stability of the rate of Patek Philippe timepieces is checked in several phases during the manufacturing process, initially with uncased movements, later with finished watches. The final rate accuracy measurement of the cased watch is performed with kinetic simulators and must comply with the following in-house precision standards:

for calibers with diameters of 20 mm or more, the rate accuracy must lie within the range of -3 and +2 seconds per 24 hours.
for calibers with diameters of less than 20 mm, the rate accuracy must lie within the range of -5 and +4 seconds per 24 hours.

Patek Philippe watches with tourbillon are subject to the same in-process inspections as all other mechancial timepieces, but they must comply with tighter tolerances as follows:

Their rate accuracy as measured during the final inspection with kinetic simulators must lie within the range of -2 and +1 seconds per 24 hours.
The greatest deviation between the average rate of the watch in all six measuring positions and the rate in each position must not exceed 4 seconds per 24 hours.

The rate accuracy of each Patek Philippe watch with a tourbillon is documented with an individually issued certificate delivered with the watch.

Another important aspect: In compliance with the in-house accuracy criteria, the final rate tests at Patek Philippe are performed with fully assembled watches as opposed to conventional tests with uncased movements.

The Patek Philippe Seal also reflects the tradition of innovation

In its quest for the highest possible level of quality, the manufacture does not tolerate compromise. This is why all qualitative aspects are subject to constant refinement. Patek Philippe strives to enhance value and long-term reliability. Thus, the Patek Philippe Seal is a dynamic quality label: its set of rules accommodates current and future developments that are suitable for the advancement of timekeeping.

The Patek Philippe Seal is the personal commitment of a family business

The Patek Philippe Seal is a promise personally backed by the company’s current President Philippe Stern as well as by his designated successor, Vice President Thierry Stern. They are both members of the family that has owned Patek Philippe since 1932. They represent the third and fourth generations that have grown up with and in the manufacture. They embody the genes of Patek Philippe, serve the company with unbridled enthusiasm, and like their forefathers are committed to handing its legacy down to the next generation, a tradition most Patek Philippe customers follow with their watches.

The Patek Philippe Seal is a comprehensive quality label

The Patek Philippe Seal defines the quality specifications from the initial production steps all the way to delivery, and it is also the industry’s first promise of lifetime service. Patek Philippe guarantees that all watches it has delivered since the company was founded in 1839 will be serviced and restored.

The Patek Philippe Seal additionally guarantees the quality of all materials used. This applies to metal alloys for movement parts and to precious metals. Precious stones for jewelry watches are always of the finest quality. As for the diamonds, the manufacture selects only superbly cut, flawless, pure white Top Wesselton grades. All stones are set by masters of the jeweler’s art and under no circumstances ever adhesively bonded.

In addition to the aesthetic requirements, one extremely important quality criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal is the absolute geometric fidelity of all watch parts. This means that manual operations such as deburring, smoothing, and polishing must not alter the prescribed final dimensions or deviate from the original functionality-defining master template. No matter how complex their shape, cases must not have any sharp edges or protruding precious stones that could cause scratches. Purely decorative finishes, regardless of the parts or external elements involved, cannot compromise functional reliability in any way.

The time measurement function is always the top priority in the development, production, and completion of the movements. For instance, the shapes and configurations of the bridges that stabilize the wheel trains are not specified on the basis of aesthetic criteria. The sole motive is to achieve the greatest possible efficiency in the transmission of power from the spring barrel to the escapement with the lowest possible loss of torque to friction.

To bring out the optimum aesthetic from this function-related movement, architecture is an essential element of the art of haute horlogerie as practiced and refined by Patek Philippe. Masters of their craft lavish their talents on the movement by chamfering and mirror-polishing the edges of the bridges and plates. They adorn visible sides of the bridges with Geneva striping and apply overlapping perlage spots to their inner sides as well as to the plate. The result: movements that represent the benchmark for the entire watchmaking community in regards to their mechanical functionality, long-term reliability, rate accuracy, and aesthetic appeal.

The cases of Patek Philippe watches also possess an indispensable function. They must protect the precious mechanical movement while assuring that the timepiece is convenient to use.

This systematic quest for quality applies to all exterior elements as well, in particular to the cases. For instance, traditional cold-forming techniques are deployed to shape cases from solid metal billets in high-tonnage presses. The respective ram and die sets are fashioned in the manufacture’s in-house tooling shop from extra-hard steel to an accuracy of just a few thousandths of a millimeter. The subsequent casemaking steps are equally meticulous: including manual finishing and repetitive precision measurements. In the end, each case is polished by hand. This operation requires two hours of concentrated work for a simple steel case and as many as six hours for complex platinum cases.

The outcome is a watch case that comes as close to perfection in functionality and beauty.

Quality assurance as an integrated element of manufacturing

The Patek Philippe Seal manifests the dedication to perfection that has always set the manufacture apart from others. It not only imposes strict requirements regarding the quality of the internal and external parts of a watch but also prescribes the systematic documentation of inspections that require compliance with quality specifications to be verified after each manufacturing step. This can be illustrated using the example of a self-winding movement whose components are fashioned in about 1200 production steps and which involves several hundred hours of exhaustive inspections (parts and preassembled parts at all workstations, statistical quality controls, final inspections). Depending on their complexity, finished movements are tested for as many as 30 days, and after casing, the complete watch is returned to the test bench to assess its accuracy, functional integrity, and performance in kinetic simulators. This phase lasts up to 20 days and assures that all final assembly steps were also in compliance with the highest horological standards. The water-resistance of the watch is tested in air with overpressure as well as under water at pressures ranging from 3 to 12 bar depending on the model. The condensation test that follows is the last step in the water-resistance screening sequence. After the complete watch has successfully passed all of these tests and complies with Patek Philippe’s rate-accuracy requirement, it is visually inspected for flawlessness of appearance one last time, then vacuum-packed and readied for delivery.

The Patek Philippe Seal applies to watches that do not exist yet. Every time a new model is developed, the key issues are its function as a measuring instrument and the need for easily legible indications. The silhouette of the movement and the integration of its functions within a reasonable diameter are guiding factors as well, because despite the current trend toward ever bulkier wristwatches, Patek Philippe places emphasis on timeless elegance. In the short term, this may not always meet the market’s capricious aesthetic preferences, but Patek Philippe knows from 170 years of experience that lasting value can only be created with confidence in matters of style and with deep respect for the principles that define the heritage of watchmaking.

The Patek Philippe Seal regulations

A seal of quality is worth only as much as the accountability mechanisms that guarantee strict compliance with its rules. Apart from the regulations, the company created institutions to assure that the rules are obeyed without the slightest compromise: a legislative body and an executive body that operate independently from one another.

The Comité du Poinçon Patek Philippe is the legislative entity. It defines the rules for the Patek Philippe Seal, continuously adjusts the regulations to accommodate relevant developments, and lays the groundwork for strategic decisions. The Comité du Poinçon Patek Philippe consists of two subcommittees: the Comité Technique (responsible for technical issues) and the Comité Esthétique (responsible for aesthetic issues). The two subcommittees are required to be in constant communication.

To ensure absolute compliance with the rules of the Patek Philippe Seal, it is necessary to continuously monitor their observance in all work processes. At the same time, new provisions must immediately be integrated into the workshops. These two responsibilities lie in the hands of the Commission de surveillance (Supervisory Authority). This completely independent, executive entity works on a daily basis and reports to the Comité du Poinçon Patek Philippe.

The President and Vice President of the manufacture are active as the Garants du Poinçon Patek Philippe (guardians of the Patek Philippe Seal).

Patek Philippe leverages its independence

While many prestigious brands have grouped together within ever-larger corporations, Patek Philippe has always fiercely defended its independence. Today, the company ranks among the last “complete” manufactures. It can forge its own future without having to heed overriding interests. Patek Philippe has the entrepreneurial latitude to safeguard the company’s success and the exclusivity of its products in the long-term perspective.

This is the tradition that inspired the Patek Philippe Seal; it will motivate and empower the ambitious Geneva workshops en route to new achievements in this and coming generations.

The Geneva Seal – currently the hallmark of all mechanical movements crafted by Patek Philippe – will gradually be replaced by the Patek Philippe Seal starting in the spring of 2009.

During the spring of 2009, the introduction of the Patek Philippe Seal will be supported by a new institutional campaign in selective media. In the ads, the President and Vice President of Patek Philippe – portrayed by world renowned British photographer John Swannell – will explain how the seal embodies the company’s values and standards.