Watch Review: Omega Aqua Terra Railmaster

With Omega’s full line of watches, there are quite a few to choose from. I contemplated on getting another SMP but later decided I wanted to have something different. I finally zeroed-in on the Seamaster Aqua Terra, with its classic simple understated design, somewhat similar to the Rolex DateJust line. Of course, compared to the Rolex, Omegas are much more reasonably priced and can be debated as offering better value. The Aqua Terra also boasts of its CoAxial Escapement movement which Omega touts to be a more accurate movement because of its unique low friction design. By the way, similar to most of their other models, Aqua Terras are also offered with a quartz movement.

After researching the AT line quite extensively, the Railmaster Model (which is part of the Seamaster AT line) looked most appealing to me because of the even more simple no-nonsense “minimalist” design. Information I gathered says that the original Railmaster was actually the inspiration of the whole Aqua Terra line. The clean balanced look of the Railmaster with no date window looks like a larger version of the Rolex Explorer 1. Also in some respects, it is quite similar to my other relatively “simple” watch, the Rolex No-Date Submariner (another watch based on a 1950s classic design).

The Railmaster comes in M, L, XL and XXL case sizes: 36mm, 39mm, 42mm and 49mm. All are COSC automatics, without date display, a clean smooth polished bezel and a matte black (more like dark charcoal gray) dial with 12,3,6,9 Arabic markers. The “Double XL” 49mm model is slightly different as it has a small subsidiary second hand at 6 o’clock. The one I’m reviewing here is a 39mm model with the 2403 movement. I believe this is the same movement used in all Railmasters except the XXL with its unique second hand. Chronograph versions are also available, with similar styling cues, but only in a 42mm version. Because of its thin bezel and large dial, this 39mm case watch looks a bit larger on the wrist. I’d suggest trying it out to see how it looks on the wrist before committing to buying one.

I have recently favored black dialed watches because of the readability factor. This is one of the best examples of a simple, easy to read dial, reminiscent of military style watches. The flat finish on the dial also contributes to its readability. The lume power is surprisingly good, one of the best I have seen recently. A domed sapphire crystal finishes the front, and the display back shows off a mildly decorated movement. The officially certified CoAxial Escapement movement in this example consistently runs about -1 to -2 secs /day worn or on a winder, well within the COSC specs.

This watch comes in either a very handsome brown or black alligator strap with a double push button deployant or an all stainless steel bracelet. The example I have came with a bracelet which is a good looking, very simple three row design, all solid SS links (including end links) done in an all brushed finish with a hidden clasp (reminds me of Rolex president or the new DJ bracelets). The links design is quite similar to the popular Speedy bracelet, except without the polished rows. I actually prefer this one as it is much easier to remove normal wear swirls and scratches using a wetted ScotchBrite pad without having to worry about dulling out the polished rows. Note that like most Omega bracelets, fine adjustment is achieved via using ½ sized links.

If there is a weak point worth mentioning on this great watch, it would be the bracelet clasp. While the bracelet itself is quite nice and hefty, the clasp mechanism feels a little weak and flimsy. It has a single push button release and a small sliding clasp link piece to make it easier to clear your hand. It actually works well but I just found it to be not as robust as I would like, particularly since I’m quite familiar with one of the best made solid stainless steel clasp of an SMP bracelet (IMHO). Maybe if they used a thicker piece of stainless to make it feel more solid, it would have made a difference.

Overall, this watch is a very understated, clean, simple design. Reminds me of the saying “speaks softly but carries a big stick”.

I will hopefully have a Movado watch review soon!

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